COASTIE'S MODIFICATIONS PAGE

This page contains a listing of various modifications that Coastie Team Members have made on their individual Coastie the Safety Boat. These modifications can be made by other team members as the situation warrants.



Modification # Modification Title
1997-01 Bow tie-down
2000-01 Hour meter installation
2000-02 Gunnel rub rail
2001-01 Emergency "kill" switch SAFETY
2001-02 CD Player Bracket SAFETY
2001-03 Battery Charger Stern Plug SAFETY
2003-01 Battery Handle

 

Please click on the contact person for information on this modification.

To go back to the modification chart click on Bow tie-down above.

 
 

Concept:
The purpose of the hour meter is to provide an indication of how long Coastie is acutally "underway". It also gives an indication of how many hours are being obtained from a battery charge and a running-hour base upon which to schedule maintenance. The installation procedure basically puts the hour meter in parallel with the existing volt meter.

Material:
12VDC hour meter (Teleflex 569669P or similar, NOTE: The two (2) inch round meter is recommended as it matches the existing volt meter and is easier to install.), two eight (8) inch lengths of #16 or #18 wire, two one-quarter (1/4) inch female quick disconnects, two one-quarter (1/4) inch multistack connectors, and method of making a two and one-eighth (2 1/8) inch hole (electric drill with hole saw or drill and rotary tool).

Procedure:
(1) Remove the superstructure and place it inverted on a padded surface. (Don't forget to disconnect the power to the CD player and disconnect the 36-pin connector.)

(2) Manually close the eyelids to provide more hand room.

(3) Mark the hour meter hole center approximately three (3) inches inboard from the center of the voltmeter and at the same vertical alignment.

(4) Make the two and one-eighth (2 1/8) inch diameter hole (or appropriate size hole for your style hour meter). Mount the hour meter in the prepared hole and secure with the mounting brackets provided.

(5) Prepare the two wire leads by crimping a female disconnect on one end and a multistack connector on the the other end of each wire.

(6) The hour meter is polarity sensitive; watch your wiring from here on. Pleace the two quick disconnect terminals on the terminals of the hour meter. You should now have two free wires terminated with multistack connectors.

(7) Remove the "+" wire from the voltmeter; place the "+" wire multistack connector from the hour meter on the voltmeter terminal and replace the original "+" on the multistack connector. Do the same for the "-" wire.

(8) Check your wiring, particularly the polarity of the hour meter leads.
(NOTE: Reversed polarity won't damage the hour meter, it just won't run.)

(9) Replace the superstructure.

(10) Turn on Coastie's power; listen for a slight hum or click from the hour meter and make sure the right hand digit is moving.

To go back to the modification chart click on Hour Meter Installation above.

 

Please click on the contact person for information on this modification.

To go back to the modification chart click on Gunnel rub rail above.

 

Concept:
If there is radio interferrence or other problem that requires the Coastie Program Director to stop Coastie, a push/pull switch can be mounted on the aft rub rail, in series with the positive battery lead, so that as the Program Director reaches out to gain control of Coastie he/she can easily push the switch in to kill all power to Coastie.

Material needed:
heavy duty 30amp push/pull switch, 36 inches of 14 gauge stranded wire, drill with appropriate sized bit, wire cutters, crimping tool, and appropriate sized crimp ring terminals and butt connectors.

Procedure:
(1). Remove Coastie's superstructure.

(2) Cut the wire into two 18 inch lengths and fasten them securely to the push/pull switch.

(3). Drill a hole through the inside portion of the aft gunnel.

(4). Reach inside Coastie's hull and push the push/pull switch through the hole just drilled. Secure the switch in place according to the manufacturer's directions.

(5). Attach one end of the wire from the push/pull switch to the wires leading to the power switch and crimp
SECURELY.

NOTE 1. The switch must be in the "ON" position while charging the battery.

NOTE 2. Because of radio interference from the drive motors with the command link,
DO NOT mount the switch further than six (6) inches from the battery; closer is better.
IN NO CASE
mount it on the removable superstructure.

To go back to the modification chart click on Emergency "kill" switch above.

 

Concept:
A March 2001 e-mail from Robotronics Inc. stated, " There have been at least three CD players that have broken off of their mounts during transport over the last few months, 014, 012, 011. We want to prevent this from happening on others.

To do this Robotronics is going to send two metal brackets to install on each side of the CD player and a metal strap to go to the back screw of the CD player.

There will be installation instructions that come with the hardware. We are also going to include rubber boots for your battery posts. We obtained these from the local Troy Built Tiller Store. These will slide over the wires and on to the battery posts to prevent anything from touching the battery posts. Because they slide on to the wire, you have to unbolt each battery wire from the post and slide on the rubber boot.

Until you receive these items be very careful especially during transport of the robot. Check the attachment of your CD player to make sure it is secure. If you would like to put a piece of plastic or wood over the battery posts in the mean time you could. I have attached some pictures of the attachment and rubber boots.

Note about transporting the robot:
The CD player breaking the bracket is more likely if your robot gets a lot of bouncing in transport such as in a trailer. It is best to transport the robot in a van or large SUV if possible, but if you must transport it in a trailer, the trailer should have "Independent Torsion Suspension". Attached are the specifications for a Pace American Cargo trailer that is used by Coastie 001.
It does not have to be this Manufacturer although it should meet these specifications. A rigid axle trailer will do more damage then good. If you need additional information about trailer specifications [click here]. The rule of thumb that we suggest is that if the trailer has shock absorption good enough to transport a computer, this is good enough for a robot. If necessary you could add 4-inch thick foam cushion inside the trailer under the robot.

If you have any questions, you can call me at 1(800)762-6876 or e-mail me at pgeorge@robotronics.com

Thank You,

Paul George, "Robotronics Service Manager"

To go back to the modification chart click on CD Player Bracket above.

 

We have found that a 6' x 10' or 6' x 8' enclosed cargo trailer with a rear ramp and side door are best for transporting Coastie.

The trailer should be fitted with internal lighting and numerous tie down rings and cargo straps for securing Coastie and all his equipment.

An extra high ceiling is helpful as it allows the Coastie handlers to stand erect while loading Coastie and his equipment.

The trailer should have a single axle and independent torsion ride suspension with radial tires.

Two tongue jacks, one flat and one with a wheel, are helpful. Depending on where the trailer will be stored, it may be beneficial to have insulation installed in the trailer to minimize temperature extremes.

The rear ramp is helpful when loading Coastie as he can be wheeled right up to his tiedowns without being lifted up.

Click for specifics on the Coastie 001 trailer.

Click here for a drawing of the trailer layout.

To go back to the modification chart click on Trailer Information above.

 

Wiring of the battery-charger-to-Coastie stern plug/connector.
Seems as though there was no corporate/factory wiring standard practice on this plug/connector combination. No problem if "original Coastie" is mated with "original battery charger" as shipped from the factory.
However if "Coastie A' is mated to "Coastie B" battery charger or vice versa, the potential for a short circuit exists.

It is STRONGLY recommended that a physical inspection of all Coastie/battery charger wiring and if necessary rewiring to the "standard configuration", Robotics may have used (almost by accident) and WILL be using from now on.

Checking is merely a physical inspection:
Unfortunately the pins on the connector and socket aren't numbered. So: remove the cover on the chrome, 4-pin trailer connector (on the end of the charger-to-stern-connector adapter cable) by removing the small phillips head screw and pushing the wires to move the black connector out of the shell.

There are now two "index points" visible, the small grove to index the connector to the shell upon reinsertion and the hole for the screw.
The black [-] negative wire should be connected to the pin located BETWEEN the two index points.
The red [+] positive wire should be connected to the next pin closest to the screw hole. Two of the pins aren't connected.

If this isn't the case: REWIRE BOTH the adapter plug and Coastie stern socket to conform.

Note: No soldering is involved, this is a simple screw connection at both locations, but rewiring the Coastie socket will require removal and pulling it out of Coastie (there is enough slack wire within Coastie to do so.)

To go back to the modification chart click on Battery Charger Stern Plug above.


The replacement 12vdc power batteries for Coastie have a slightly different handle configuration than that of earlier batteries. The new batteries have a rigid black plastic handle instead of the flexible rope handle. This rigid handle is attached to the battery in close proximity to the ring terminals used to attach the wires to the battery terminals.This location could result in bending and ultimate fracture of the ring terminals as the battery is lifted out and reinserted into Coastie.


It is recommend the wires be rerouted UNDER the plastic lifting handle to prevent this occurrence. This rerouting can be accomplished by either removing, rerouting and reattaching the wire or by removing the handle, relocating the wire and reattaching the handle in the battery-top recess.

To go back to the modification chart click on Battery Handle above.

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